Et Voila Adventures: Minerva Reef and Savusavu, Fiji

MAY 9 – MAY 19, 2015

PASSAGE FROM MARSDEN COVE, NEW ZEALAND TO MINERVA REEF

Theo and I cleared out of New Zealand customs at Marsden Cove and swiftly left for Fiji with the hope of stopping at Minerva Reef, weather permitting. Minerva Reef (north and south) is a reef atoll submerged at anything but high tide. It is about halfway between New Zealand and Tonga or Fiji and it offers some bad weather protection to sailors. The water is crystal clear and the diving/snorkeling is amazing.

Theo was fine during the passage, but it took me a few days to get my “sea legs” back. The wind was not as cooperative as we had hoped, but on May 15^th, we finally arrived at South Minerva Reef. We entered the pass without much drama and anchored by three other catamarans that we know. We stayed in South Minerva for one night and then sailed on to North Minerva, which was better protected from the impressive 4 meter ocean swells. We anchored by the pass to be close to the dive area. Right after we anchored, our full attention was on a small sailboat (we later found out it was a Catalina 36) slowly going through the pass with huge swells and braking waves behind it. To everyone’s relief they made it through safely. The next day, a sailboat that entered the reef had lost its mast just outside the pass. This is every sailor’s nightmare. Theo and Gustaf went over to offer help and invite the captain and crew for dinner, but they were quite shaken up and not in the mood to socialize…understandably so. We were empathetic and humbled by their situation.

The remainder of our time in Minerva Reef was filled with sleep, snorkeling, spear fishing, lobster hunting and pot luck dinners. It was a good decision to take a few days pause there.

A bird resting on our speaker during the passage to Minerva Reef

Left to right- Field Trip, Exodus, Et Voila and Lumbaz in South Minerva Reef

Et Voila anchored next to Lumbaz in South Minerva Reef

Standing on the reef during low tide with my friend Tina from Caminante

A potluck with friends on board the sailing vessel Caminante

After dinner, the girls acted out a play they wrote themselves

Theo on his way to the reef to hunt for lobsters

After a day of spearfishing, Theo and Brenan show off their catch!

Theo, Mark and Tim doing maintanence on Mark's Hooka equipment.

One of the pot luck dinners with Sarah, Jenny and Deanne.

MAY 22 – 28, 2015

SAVUSAVU, FIJI

We entered the Copra Shed Marina after sailing three days from Minerva Reef. The warm weather and friendly people were very welcoming. The feeling I get in Fiji is different than anywhere else. I is very relaxed and I feel whatever tension I have melt away. It must be the fresh, cold coconut drinks! We have arrived in paradise.

The marina was busy and is a social hub for cruisers. It is a place to let your hair down after a long passage and swap adventure stories with other sailors that are experiencing a similar lifestyle. Theo and I quickly began stuffing load after load of damp, smelly cloths and towels into bags for laundry service. A cheerful woman named Marie happily took our belongings and later in the day returned them to us soft, clean and folded…Yay! Simple pleasures.

We walked into Savusavu town and were impressed with the hustle and bustle. A lot seemed to be happening. Right in the center is a bus station that is the main means of transportation. I also noticed many taxis lined up near the buses, but from what I could tell, no one ever got in one. The airport is five minutes away from town and a taxi ride costs five Fijian dollars ($2.50 US) and if you want to grab a Roti for lunch (Indian fast food), that will cost you one Fijian dollar (you do the math). Amazing…

When cruising to the many islands in Fiji it is customary, if not mandatory, to partake in a ceremony called Sevusevu. This is the essence of the Fijian culture. After anchoring near a village, the captain and crew must meet with the chief and ask to be accepted onto their island. Once onshore, a gift of Kava root must be presented to the village headman. He will be on the beach waiting to greet you, ask your intentions, and then present you and your gift to the chief and village elders. Once the Kava has been drunk and stories exchanged, you are considered to be part of the village and embraced by the people as one of their own.

When you are in a Fijian village, it is best to be respectful and honor their way of life. One way of doing this is to dress appropriately. Men wear a traditional Sulu (long skirt) and shirt, while women wear a Chamba. A Chamba is a colorful, long skirt with a matching top that covers the upper arms and shoulders. Knowing we would be visiting many villages in the following months, I went shopping for one with a group of friends. Many of the women I was with were tall and thin and the Chamba fell just right and looked really pretty on them. I, on the other hand, have a solid build and am vertically challenged. When I put the Chamba on, I looked and felt miserable. It was way too much material for my body and the fabric was stiff, scratchy, hot and made me sweat profusely. I know when a Chamba is worn to the villages it is greatly appreciated in Fiji, but I think life is too short to wear uncomfortable clothes. I did not buy a Chamba.

During our time in Savusavu, I noticed many stray dogs wandering around. They seemed very hungry and I noticed that they hung around the outdoor market at lunchtime hoping that someone would share their food. Theo and I still had kibble and cans of dog food on the boat from when Mambo and Isabel were on board, so I began bringing it with me whenever we went into town. It is a good thing we left when we did, because in a few more days I would have been walking along with about ten devoted dogs following my every step!

As expected, we became comfortable at the Copra Shed Marina. We had friends, conveniences and a solid mooring ball… It was time to move on.